Cycling the East Cape

Biking the East Cape would be the highlight of cycle touring in NZ. It's a lot like the West Coast of the South Island - remote, not many people about and when you do meet them they're very friendly, hardly any traffic and a really good road (small chip and good shoulder!). Different to the West Coast in that Māori is pretty much the first language here; all notices and newspapers are in Māori, then English; shop owners, camp managers will greet you with 'Kia ora' and you leave with a 'Ka kite' ringing in your ears. 

The two sides are quite different; the West side is very easy access to the bays and pretty flat riding hugging the coast line. The East side is where a lot of cattle and sheep stations begin and it's very hilly. Townships are getting a bit bigger (Ruatoria, Tolaga Bay..) As usual, it was 4 seasons in one day, everyday. My clothes, (socks especially) stink! 

This ride is Highway 35 and starts in Opitiki, Bay of Plenty. I camped in Te Kaha, Te Araroa, Tokomaru Bay and Tolaga Bay before arriving in Gisborne. 

Tip: Cycling some of this on the weekend means avoiding the many logging trucks that are on this road, (although they are very courteous to cyclists).

 This leapt on my shoulder while I was stopping at the one and only picnic table on the East Cape and gave me a huge fright! I had no idea what it was...had to ask someone at my campsite that night!

 Horses everywhere - a lot tethered to fence posts on the side of the road.

 An extrememly hilly and exhausting day from Te Araroa to Tokomaru Bay...I think this is the only photo I took that day - too tired!

 Arriving at Tolaga Bay; rain threatening...

 Tolaga Bay; home to the longest wharf in New Zealand - 660m! A huge part of the East Cape's history, this was their lifeline before modern, sealed roads appeared. It opened in 1929 and in 1936 133 ships worked the port. After the war, only coasters called and in 1966 it was wound up. In 1999 the locals got together and formed the 'Tolaga Bay Save the Wharf Charitable Trust' to ensure it was extensively restored for the many locals and tourists to enjoy.

 Apparently a legendary place to dangle a fishing line...

You can see the camping ground right by the beach in this photo - 3km out of town - a great wee spot! Just next to it is Cooks Cove Walkway (5.8km return) where this photo was taken. It's where James Cook stopped in 1769 as part of his circumnavigation of NZ.

Through a fence, around a corner and you're almost off the cliff!

The final 53km from Tolaga Bay to Gisborne is a beautiful ride. The last 20km is alongside the coastline, like above. Watch out for the sea lions!

Gisborne - this picture was taken just before we had 24 hours of very heavy rainfall. Great fish 'n chips at Captain Morgans beside the camping ground on this beachfront!

I found a bookshop/cafe and yay - Famous Five for grown ups! 

Visited the Tairawhiti museum, and there was this great painting. It's called Himematioro By Robyn Kahukiwa and she was a woman of very high standing among the East Coast peoples about the time that James Cook visited NZ in 1769. To see more of Robyn's incredible art, click here.